Shoe and method of making the same



Dec.' 29, 1936. AYERS 2,065,786

. SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed March 1, 1935 3 Sheets-Sheetl Dec. 29, 1936. L. A R 2,065,786

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed March 1, 1955 6Sheets-Sheet 22, 1936. AYERS 2,065,786

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed March 1, 1935 3 Sheets-Sheet 3I outer sole cemented in position and being sub- Patented Dec. 29, 1936UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE Application March 1,

17 Claims.

This invention relates to shoes and to their manufacture.

One object of the invention is to make a shoe which may, if desired,simulate in appearance a single-soled shoe, such as a turn, and yetwhich may be actually of the two-sole type. When no innersole isemployed, the shoe is a single sole shoe with the upper so securelylocked to the sole that the use of cement for securing the sole inposition is entirely practicable. The shoe, may, if desired, be given anextension sole which may receive ornamentation simulating weltstitching, stitch separating, or wheeling. The shoe is provided with anouter sole member, the upper being lasted in and secured to a ribelement which may or may not be carried by an innersole, the sole memberbeing formed to engage and interlock with the upper and rib and to coverand conceal the means by which the upper and rib are secured together.The sole or outer sole is preferably secured as by cement, but the partsare so formed that no roughing operation to cause proper adhesion of thecement to any of the parts is necessary. The sole may, however, besecured by stitching or other means, if desired.

For a more complete understanding of this invention, reference may behad to the accompanying drawings in which Figures 1 and 2 are planviews, Figure 1 being fragmentary, showing difierent forms of outer solewhich may be used.

Figure 3 is a fragmentary section on line 3-3 of Figure 1.

Figure 4 is a fragmentary perspective, partly in section, of the edgeportion of one form of innersole which may be used.

Figure 5 is a view similar to'Figure 4, but showing the upper secured tothe innersole lip.

Figure 6 is a fragmentary section showing the outer sole and the lastedshoe adjacent to each other preparatory to securing the outer sole inposition.

Figure 7 is a fragmentary section showing the jected to pressure whilethe cement is setting.

Figure 8 is a fragmentary section showing the relation of the innersole,upper, inseam and outer sole in the completed shoe.

Figure 9 is a detail section showing a modified innersole construction.

Figure 10 is a fragmentary perspective of the toe portion of anextension edge shoe made in accordance with this invention,

1935, Serial No. 8,892

Figure 11 is a section similar to Figure 3, but showing a modification.v

Figure 12 is a section similar to Figure 8, but showing the outer soleof Figure 11.

Figure 13 shows in perspective the forepart of an innersole member ofanother form.

Figure 14 is a view of the construction of Figure 13, but with areinforcing layer partly applied thereto.

Figures 15 and 16 are detail sections on lines l5-l5 and Iii-l6 ofFigures 13 and 14, respectively.

Figures 17 and 18 are views similar to Figures 8 and 12, respectively,but employing the innersole of Figures 13 and 14.

Figure 19 is a fragmentary section through the edge portion of aninnersole of another form.

Figures 20 and 21 are views similar to Figure 19, but showing the upperstitched to the inner-' sole and before and after the trimmingoperation, respectively.

Figure 22 is a fragmentary perspective showing the use of a separateoutersole lip member for interlocking with the upper and innersole.

Figure 23 is a section similar to Figure 12, but employing theconstruction of Figure 22.

Figure 24 is a view similar to Figure 23, but illustrating amodification.

Figure 25 is a perspective with parts broken away, showing a method ofproducing a rand strip such as is shown in Figures 22 and 23.

Figure 26 is a section similar to Figures 3 and.4, but showing a furthermodification.

Figure 27 is a plan view showing an upperreceiving rib temporarilyattached to a last and permanently attached to a shank piece.

Figure 28 is a detail section on line 28-28 of Figure 27. i

Figure 29 is a view similar to Figure 28, but showing the upper lastedover and secured to the rib.

Figure 30 is a detail section similar to Figure 29, but showing theupper trimmed and the sole prepared for attachment.

Figure 31 is a view similar to Figure 30, but showing the sole attachedand the shoe subjected to sole-securing pressure.

Figure 32 is a somewhat diagrammatic perspective showing a last with atemporary innersole or locating piece secured thereto in conjunctionwith a shank piece and an upper-securing member, the shank piece andmember being intended to be attached to the innersole or 10- eatingpiece.

Figure 33 is a somewhat diagrammatic central longitudinal sectionthrough the shoe and last employing the construction of Figure 32 andshowing the last partly removed, taking with it the temporary innersoleor locating piece.

Figure 34 is a detail section through the toe portion of a shoe and lastemploying a. sock lining to which the upper attaching element ispermanently secured and showing in dotted lines the last partly removed.

Figures 35 and 36 are views somwhat'similar to Figures29 and 30,respectively, but showing a modification.

Figures 37 and 38 are detail sections somewhat similar to the upperparts of Figures 30 and 36, respectively, but showing a furthermodification.

Figure 39 is a fragmentary perspective 'of a lasted shoe showing stillanother modification.

This application is a continuation in part of my application Serial No.727,244, filed May 24, 1934, for Shoe and method of making the same.

Referring to Figure 4 of the drawings, at i is indicated an innersolewhich may, if desired, be provided with a reinforcing layer 2 of canvas,or the like, in accordance with common practice.

As shown this innersole is cut inwardly at its edge at 3 to form afeatheror outward extension element 4 about its margin and adjacent toits lower face. This innersole may be tacked to the last in the usualmanner and the upper materials, comprising the outer 5 and the lining 6,

may then be drawn over and lasted and secured to the element 4, as shownin Figure 5, as by, a linev of fastenings,shown as comprising an inseamI. The element 4 and the margins of the upper materials are then trimmedoff, as shown in'Figure 6, the uppermaterials extending outwardlysomewhat below the inseam and forming an outwardly projecting flange 8,the action of the trimming knife in the direction of the arrow aiding inthus shaping the parts. Since the securement of the upper material isnearer the edge of the innersole than in most prior constructions, theupper stock may be cut with less lasting allowance so that there is asaving of material.

In Figures 5 and 6 enchainment of the inseam stitches is shown aspositioned on the inner face of the innersole lip and this will usuallybe the preferred arrangement because it offers less amount of thread tobe concealed from view in the finished shoe. Certain types of sewingmachines may be used to position the stitches in,

this manner, although the more usual types of inseam stitches will causethe enchainment to occur on the outside of the upper materials.

Where it is desired to use a usual form of inseam stitcher in such amanner that the enchainment will be on the inside the innersole may beconstructed as shown in Figure 9 with a marginal feather or element 9extending outwardly beyond the normal outline of the innersole as at l0,whereupon the shoe may be presented to the inseam stitching machineafter the manner disclosed in my Patent No. 1,920,338 granted August 1,1933. After the parts have been sewed together, the extension feather 9is trimmed 'off so that the lasted shoe appears as In Figures 1 and 2are illustrated two forms of outer sole suitable for this invention. Inthe form shown in Figure 1, the outer sole I2 is channeled on its upperface toward its margin about the forepart only to form a lip l5, whichis turned up, as shown in Figure 3. The outer sole of Figure 2 is thesame as that .of Figure 1 with the exception that the channeling iscarried also through the shank portion of the sole, instead ofthroughout the forepart only.

The lip I! may beturned upwardly so as to facilitate the presentation ofthe sole to the lasted shoe, as shown in Figure 6, with the trimmedportion of the feather 4 andthe margins of the upper materials justinwardly of the lip l5. One or may be exerted in the usual manner, as bymeans L of an, inflated air cushion 20, and it is preferable I to applythe pressure in a manner to cause the marginal portion of the outer sole14 to be curved upwardly,this'turning-the outwardly turned margins ofthe upper materials 5 and 6 and the feather 4 outwardly and beneath thelip l5, which is laid down beneath 'the upper materials above the inseamstitch line, and into contact with the threads at the outer face of theinseam stitching.

This method of cementing avoids the necessity, present in themanufacture of most types of cemented shoes, of applying a solvent tothe previously cement-coated and dried confronting surfaces of the partsto be attached, and is further desirable with the present shoeconstruction in order that the outer sole lip and the cooperating partsof the lasted shoe shall be sufilciently flexible, when these parts areassembled, to properly interengage and assume their desired relations inthe shoe.

It may also be found desirable when making the inseam to employ astitching needle of relatively large size so that the cement may squeezeinto the holes around the stitches, thus to penetrate into the materialof the stitches and strengthen them as well as to cement their variousadjacent parts together and to the stitches.

Staples or other equivalent fasteners might, of

course, be used in place of inseam stitching, if desired, though becausecement will adhere well to stitching this will usually be preferable.

When the cement is set and pressure, is. re-

moved, the shoe sole may be leveled so that the I upper materials belowthe inseam stitching, thus firmly locking the parts together andentirely concealing the inseam stitches from view. The

confronting faces of the inner and outer soles are in direct contact sothat no sole filler is re-- quired and the cemented portions of the shoeI are all outside of the area contacted by the foot. Where a canvasmight otherwise directly contact with a sole member a piece of soft thinmaterial such as flannel, may be interposed, if desired, to preventsqueaking. Since no stitches or tack holes appear on the inner face ofthe innersole, it is not necessary to use a sock liningif it be desiredto omit it, or, as may later appear, the innersole itself may be of athinness and of a material that will serve as a sock lining.Particularly where the cement is not caused to pass into the needleholes, the shoe constructed in accordance with this invention has thebreathing properties of an ordinary sewed shoe since there is no cementabove the inseam stitch line. This obviates one of the disadvantagesoften experienced with types of cemented shoes heretofore used in whichthere has often been found a tendency to draw the feet due to the lackof ventilation or breathing around the sole of the shoe. Due to theinterlock between the outer sole and lasted shoe also, the proper layingof the outer sole is facilitated since the interlocking of the lastedshoe locates the position of the outer sole, which cannot thereafterslip out of position laterally a common difliculty in the manufacture ofother forms of cemented shoes. Leveling of the shoe sole thereafterbreaks up the cement without,

however, weakening the bond so that the sole is w more flexible thanthat of a cement shoe as heretofore constructed.

If desired the completed shoe may have an extension edge as shown at 2!in Figure 10, which may be finished to simulate a welt or other usualmultiple-soled shoe, and it may be provided with a line of stitching orstitch simulations, or the upper margin of this extension may be stitchseparated, wheeled, or otherwise ornamented. Such finishing operationsmay be performed after the outer sole has been applied, as the interlockof the outer sole with the other parts is so secure that no damage tothe bond therebetween is to be feared. This is not a feasible practicewith cement process shoes as usually con-' by providing a support forthe upper face of the outer sole margin, as shown in Figure 31, to takethe thrust of the outer sole engaging pressure element, such curving maybe entirely avoided. The pyroxylin cements now commonly employed incemented shoes, require for best resu'ts that the parts to be cementedbe held under pressure for a time after they have been assembled, thecement being in tacky condition, .and by so positioning the parts thatthe confronting faces of the sole lip and the lasted shoe elementinterengaged therewith are positioned substantially wholly inwardlybeneaih the shoe upper above the sole, the last aflfords sufficientinternal support to cause the outside presser element to do all thepressing required for proper securement of the parts together. A mockwelt can be secured on the upper face of this outer sole, if desired, as

by through and through stitches.

Still another construction of extension edge is shown-in-Figures 11 and12. Referring to Figure 11, a mock welt 25 is stitched as at 28 to thelip 26 of the outer sole 21, which is preferably thinflattened out asshown in Figure 12, so that the stitch line 28 shows on the top face ofthe mock welt simulating the outer sole stitching in a welt shoe. Thestitching-may be sunk down into the welt, if desired, as is also commonpractice in welt shoes and the upper face of this welt may be otherwiseornamented and finished to simulate welt shoe construction. Thisembodiment of the invention may be used to give a thick edge effect:

In Figures 13 to 18 constructions particularly suitable for use when aflexible soled shoe is desired are illustrated. A relatively thininnersole blank 30 is channeled about its margin to form the upper andlower portions 3| and 32 shown in Figures 13 to 16 and has the centralportion of its forepart cut out as shown at 33 to leave a. marginal rim34. The inner margin of this rim is skived off as at -35 on its lowerface (Figure 15). Cement is thenv applied to this lower face and theblank is then stuck in face to face relation to a permanent reinforcinglayer 36 (Figures 14 and 16) which may be .of canvas or the like. Thisreinforcinglayer is out either before or after the blank is appliedthereto, and,

if desired, to extend somewhat beyond the mar-- gin of the blank to formwith the blank element 32 a portion to receive the inseam stitchessimilar to the construction shown in Figure 9. The innersole thusprepared is employed in the same manner as heretofore described, theupper materials being lasted over and secured to the stitch-receivingelement of the innersole as by the outer sole where it is channeled, andalso the thread of theinseam stitching, provide surfaces which will takethe cement properly Without any roughening up. which is found necessaryin the case of cement process shoes as ord narily constructed where thecement is required to adhere to the outer faces of the upper materials.While the upper at its margin may be roughed, if desired, this is notdepended upon to produce a proper bond between the lasted shoe and theouter sole.

In order to further effect a cement bond b tween the parts. the inseamthread may be pretreated with cement. as by being based through liquidcement and allowed to harden. and then just before the stitching iseffected bring passed through a cement solvent which may be pos tionedas is the usual wax pot of a wax thread sewing machine. In addition orin lieu of (:ment. the outer sole may be secured as by McKay stitches39, as shown in Figure 8.

It is also possible to employ an innersole having a stitch-receiving ribsimilar to that commonly employed in welt shoes. Figure 19 shows such aninnersole having a double lip 40 formed by both inwardly and outwardlychanneling the innersole about its margin, this lip being reinforced inthe usual manner on its inner side by a. fabric layer 4|. Figure 20shows a single lp 42 formed by outwardly channeling the innersole, thislip likewise being reinforced with fabric 4|. Witheither of theseconstructions the inseam trimming, if done in an outward direction, asshown by the arrow in Figure 21, produces a suflicient outward extensionof the parts as at 4! beyond the outer face of the inseam stitches toproduce an interlock with the outer sole as previously described. Anyinnersole and upper arrangement which will produce a construction largerat its lower end than above, so as to provide an interlock with theouter sole may be used.

It may sometimes be found desirable to initially form the interlockingportion of the outer sole as a separate part which is secured to theouter sole either before or after the outer sole is applied. Such partmay be a marginal rand cut from the outer sole 45 as shown at 46 inFigure 25. After the removal of this rand the outer solev edge may befurther thinned, as shown in Figure 22 at 41. This randor other piece ofsimilar cross section may, if desired, be provided with ornamentalstitching as shown at 4 8 in Figure 22, or it may be secured to theouter sole by stitching 50 before the outer sole is applied to the shoein the manner shown in Figure 26, and its inner edge at 5| raised tofacilitate the insertion beneath it of the mating interlocking portionof the'lasted shoe. The stitch 50 may be chain or lock stitch, and itmay be ornamental on the lower face of the sole as well as on' the upperface of the strip 50, if desired. If desired, also, the separate stripmay be cut straight and it may be temporarily secured in upstandingposition about the margin of the outer sole blank, as shown in Figure 24at 55, and its upper edge portion 56 in-turned over the top of-the outersole where it may be cemented when the outer sole is applied to theshoe. The other part extending outwardly of the edge of the outer soleblank may be trimmed oif later as at the dotted line a.a, leaving theportion 56 as shown in Figure 23 interlocking with the upper extensionand concealing the inseam stitches similarly to the integral lip l5shown in Figure 8.

This general method of attaching an outer sole member may be employed toadvantage in shoes of the single sole type, that is, in which noinnersole is employed. Constructions of this nature are illustrated in-Figures 2'7 to 39. Referring first to Figures 27 to 30, 'at 60 is showna last to the sole face of which about its margin is temporarily securedan element 6! in the nature of a stitch-receiving rib. This element 6|may be secured as by the use of rubber cement directly to the last andmay in addition be temporarily, secured at intervals, as by tacks 62. Asshown it is formed of a pair of angle strips 63 and 64 secured togetherto form a flanged lip 85 to receive the stitches, the flanges 66 and 81being formed to engage with the last. It

might, however, be otherwise constructed so long as it is so made as topresent a portion to which the upper materials may be secured and tohave sufficient bearing on the last to facilitate temporary securementin. a sufficiently secure manner. Rearwardly from the break line of thelast, the strip 6| may be secured permanently to the lower face of ashank piece 68. This may be of usual construction having a portionextending down into the shank of the last as at 580 and a heel portion69.- The upper materials.

are lasted over in the usual manner and secured as by stitching at 10 tothe element 65 after which the margins are trimmed, and where temporarylasting tacks are employed, such as 82, these are pulled before the soleis applied. This soie, corresponding. to the outer sole of theconstructions previously described, is shown at 15, and preferably it isrecessed about its margin as at 16 to form a central thickened portion11, as this central portion tends to hold the marginal portions of theupper and stitching rib outwardly where they belong in the finishedshoe, taking somewhat the function of the innersole in accomplishingthis in the double-soled shoes previously described. At the outerportion of this marginal recess 16, this sole is provided with themarginal inwardly extending lip 18, defined by the wedge shaped channeltherebeneath, the lip, as shown, being integral with the sole member. Itmight, however, be made in any of the forms hereinbefore illustrated,separately and thereafter attached.

Figure 30 illustrates a somewhat different manner of treating the partsto form the interlocking connection between the lasted shoe and the sole10, which, however, is applicable in the attaching of the outer sole toa lasted shoe which is provided with an innersole as previouslydescribed. In accordance with this method the trimmed upper materialsare turned downward instead of outward, and the entire margin of thesole member throughout the length of the lip' 18 is molded downwardly,if desired while in temper, from the dotted line into the full lineposition. The parts are thus assembled and the margin of the solereturned to or slightly above the horizontal position under pressure,this forcing the trimmed upper margins outwardly into the channel of thesole and the lip 18 over these margins and against the outer face of theupper and the outer face of the inseam stitches, as shown in Figure 31.The proper formation may be aided by the use of an anvil member 80engaging the top face of the sole margin and against which the sole ispressed. The sole may be applied, however, in the manner heretoforedescribed when shoes provided with innersoles are employed and the partsare subjected to pressure. The flange 66 will be cemented to the sole15. When this is done the outwardly extending upper margin parts may bepre-treated with cement which is allowed to harden and stiifen'the partsbefore the sole is applied. When the parts have been securedsufliciently, the last is removed, the rib 6| separating from the last,and remaining behind so that the shoe appears as illustrated in Figure31 with the stitch-securing element 6! at the margin of the upper andcemented to the sole 15, the marginal flanges 66 and 61 of the member 6|being all that appears inside the shoe on the upper face of the solemember 15, the out-turned edges of the upp r being in interlockingengagement with the sole I5 so that the parts are firmly secured. Theflange 61 acts to hold the upper to the outer line of the'last after thelast has been removed and helps to cover the line of inseam fastenings.At the shank and heel portion of the shoe the shank piece is positionedso that these parts of the shoe are reinforced, while the forepart onlypresents a single sole. Where the strip 6| is secured to the last byrubber cement and pyroxylin cement is employed to secure the sole inposition, the fumes from the solvent of the.

pyroxylin cement act on the rubber cement and cause it to lose very muchof its adhesive quality, so that the later removal of the last leavingthe strip 6| behind is greatly facilitated.

In any case where it may be desired to do so, as where it may beimpracticable to secure the element 6i directly to the face of the last,it may be temporarily secured to an innersole. member shown in Figures32 and 33 or locating piece 85. As shown in these figures, thisinnersole member is arranged in the forepart only since as it willusually be desired to employ a permanent shank piece 68, an extensionfurther rearwardly of this innersole would be of no value. It may besecured permanently to the last as by tacks 86, both inwardly andoutwardly of the stitch-receiving rib 6|, if desired, and after theupper and sole 15 have been secured, as described in connection with theconstruction shown in Figures 27 to 31, the last, together with theinnersole 85, is removed from the shoe, leaving the upper-securing stripand the shank piece attached to the sole. I

Instead of employing a temporary innersole in this manner, a relativelythin material suitable for use as a sock lining may have theuppersecuring rib or lip permanently attached thereto. Such aconstruction is shown in Figure 34 in which a thin piece of fabric, orthe like, at 90, which may serve as a sock lining and which is of theshape of an innersole, is temporarily secured to the sole face of thelast, and has secured thereto the upper-receiving lip or element such as'61. The shoe having been lasted and the sole 15 secured thereto, aspreviously described, on the last being removed, the member 90 is leftin place to serve as a sock lining.

Instead of forming the outwardly extended margin of the lasted shoe forinterlock with the sole member of the upper margins, this interlockingportion may be otherwise formed as shown, for example, in Figures 35 to38, whether or not an innersole is to be employed in the forepart of thefinished shoe. In Figure '35 the inseam stitches I00, which secure theupper materials to the sole-securing element II, also pass through athin narrow strip I02 secured outwardly of the shoe upper I03 and afterthe inseam trimming operation the upper edge of this strip I02 is turnedoutwardly by running a suitable tool therearound between its inner faceand the adjacent face of the upper to form an outward extension I04(Figure 36), which may be engaged beneath the sole lip 11 and interlocktherewith. This strip I02, since it comes out above the stitch lineserves to entirely conceal the stitching and even if the lip 61 shouldnot be laid in place thoroughly, no inseam stitchings can appear in thefinished shoe.

In Figures 3'7 and 38 a construction is shown in which the inseamstitches themselves are employed to form this outwardly extendingelement for interlocking engagement with the sole. Where this is done,the inseam stitching at H is preferably arranged with the stitchinterlock on the outside, thus to present a substantial mass of threadas at l l I and the thread may be'heavier than that which wouldordinarily be used in the other constructions herein illustrated. Thisthread may then be mashed down on its upper face to form a substantialoutward extension at H2 shown in Figure 38, and the wetting of thisportion of the shoe with a cement or a cement solvent which will tend tosoften the stitch material somewhat may be used to aid in conditioningvthe thread so that this shaping operation can be done more easily. Thisextension I l 2 is then usable for that portion of the lasted shoe whichinterlocks with the in-turned lip on the upper face of the sole member.This sole member may either be an outer sole, where an innersole isemployed, or be the single-sole where no innersole appears in theforepart of the finished shoe.

. One of the great advantages of the shoe constructions heretoforeillustrated lies in the fact that the interengagement between the soleand the lasted shoe is predetermined by the position of the sole lip.This makes it possible to precut the sole to substantially finishedsize, since it cannot slip laterally when being applied due to theinterengagement between the sole lip and the outwardly extending portionof the lasted shoe which engages therewith, and this cutting cement bondis between the lasted shoe and the sole inwardly of the lip, but this isprotected by the interengaging and secured lips from entrance ofmoisture and other foreign matter which in other types of cemented shoeshas in time seriously affected the cement bond between the sole and theother parts.

From the foregoing description of certain embodiments of this invention,it should be evident to those skilled in the art that various changesand modifications may be made without departing from the spirit or scopeof this invention as defined by the appended claims.

I claim:

1. A shoe having a. sole presenting at its outer edge the edge of thesole stock and having an inwardly extending marginal lip on its upperface attached thereto adjacent its outer edge, and means comprisingupper materials and an element to which said upper materials are lastedand secured, said means presenting an outwardly extending partinterposed between the inner edge of said lip and the upper face of saidsole and terminating inwardly of the attachment of said lip to saidsole, the adjacent faces of said part and lip being secured together andpositioned substantially wholly inwardly beneath the shoe upper abovesaid sole.

2. A shoe having a sole presenting at its outer edge the edge of thesole stock and outwardly channeled to form an inwardly extendingmarginal lip on its upper face attached thereto adjacent its outer edge,and means comprising upper materials and an element to which said uppermaterials are lasted and secured, said means presenting an outwardlyextending part interposed between the inner edge of said lip and theupper face of said sole and terminating inwardly of the attachment ofsaid lip to said sole.

3. A shoe having an innersole, upper materials lasted in and secured tosaid innersole and having their margins outwardly turned below theirsecurement to said -innersole, and an outer sole channeled toward itsmargin on its upper face to form an inwardly extending lip, said lipoverlying said outwardly turned margins and concealing the securement ofsaid upper to said innersole.

4. A shoe having an innersole provided with a marginal feather on itslower side, upper materials lasted in and stitched to said feather, saidfeather and the margins of said upper materials extending outwardly, andan outer sole cemented to said innersole and upper materials and havingan integral inwardly extending lip overlying said outwardly extendedupper materials and concealing said stitching.

5, A shoe having an innersole provided with a marginal feather on itslower side, upper materials lasted in and stitched to said feather, saidfeather and the margins of said upper materials extending outwardly, andan outer sole cemented to said innersole and upper materials and havingan integral inwardly extending lip overlying said outwardly extendedupper materials and concealing such stitching, said inner and outer.soles I cemented to said innersole and upper materials and having anintegral inwardly extending lip overlying said outwardly extended uppermaterials and cemented to and concealing such stitching.

7. A shoe having an innersole, upper materials lasted in and secured tosaid innersole and having their outer margins outwardly turned belowtheir securement to said innersole, an outer sole channeled toward itsmargin on its upper face to form an inwardly extending lip, and a mockwelt secured to said lip by a line of stitches, said lip and mock weltoverlying said outwardly turned margins, and said line of stitchingshowing on the upper face of said welt and simulating in appearance theouter sole stitching of a welt shoe.

8-. ,The method which comprises lasting a shoe and securing the marginsof the upper to a reinforcing element extending about the margin' of thesole face of the last to leave a projecting element, applying a solemember to the lasted shoe with an inwardly extending lip about itsmargin overlying said element, subjecting the parts to pressure to laythe lip and extend the element thereunder, and then removing the last.

9. The method which comprises temporarily securing an upper reinforcingelement to the sole face of a last adjacent to its margin, lasting theupper materials over and securing them to said element to form therewitha portion having a projecting flange, securing a sole member with aninwardly projecting marginal lip to the lasted shoe with said lipoverlying said flange, and thereafter removing the last leaving saidelement attached to said upper and sole.

10. The method which comprises lasting and securing the margins of theshoe upper in position adjacent to the soleface of the last and formingadjacent to such securement an outwardly extending element, forming aninwardly extending marginal lip on the upper face of a sole member forengagement over said element and while maintaining said sole member ofsubstantially its original size, and positioning and securing said soleon the lasted shoe with said lip overlying said element.

11. The method which comprises lasting and securing the-margin of a shoeupper in position adjacent to the sole face of the last and formingadjacent to such securement an outwardly extending element, shaping asole blank to substantially finished size, formng an inwardly extendingmarginal lip on the upper edge of said blank for engagement over saidelement, and positioning and securing said blank thus prepared on thelasted shoe with said lip overlying said element.

12. The method which comprises lasting and securing the margin of a shoeupper in position adjacent to the sole face of the last and formingadjacent to such securement an outwardly extending element, outwardlychanneling the upper face of a sole member of substantially finishedsize about its margin to form an inwardly extending marginal lip, andthen positioning and securing said sole member to the lasted shoe withsaid lip overlying said element.

13. The method which comprises lasting and securing the margin of a shoeupper in position adjacent to the sole face of the last and formingadjacent to such securement an outwardly extending element, securing tothe upper face of a sole member about its margin a strip of materialforming inwardly of its securement an inwardly extending lip, andsecuring said sole member to the lasted shoe with said lip overlyingsaid element.

14. The method which comprises lasting a shoe and securing the marginsof the upper to a marginal feather at the lower face of an innersole,

outwardly channeling an outer sole and turningthe channel lip outwardly,cementing said outer sole to the lasted shoe with said feather and uppermargin inwardly of said lip and with said lip covering the line ofinseam securement, and then subjecting the parts to pressure in adirection to lay the lip down and to extend said feather and uppermargin outwardly beneath said lip.

15. The method which comprises lasting a shoe and securing the marginsof the upper to a marginal feather at the lower face of an innersole,outwardly channeling an outer sole and turning the channel lipoutwardly, cementing said outer sole to the lasted shoe with saidfeather and upper margin inwardly of said lip and with said lip coveringthe line of inseam securement, pressing the lip down over the uppermargins and feather, permitting the cement to harden, and then finishingthe portion of said outer sole ex tending outwardly beyond the upper.

16. The method which comprises lasting a shoe and securing the marginsof the upper to a reinforcing element extending about the margin of thesole face of the last to leave a downwardly projecting element, moldingthe marginal portion of a sole member having an inwardly extendingmarginal lip on its upper face to raise said lip, applying said solemember to the lasted shoe with saidlip outwardly of said projectingelement, and then pressing said molded margin to close said lip oversaid element and extend said element outwardly beneath said lip.

17. The method which comprises lasting a shoe and securing the marginsof the'upper to a reinforcing element extending about the margin of thesole face of the last to leave a downwardly projecting element, moldingthe marginal portion of a sole member having an inwardly extendingmarginal lip on its upper face to raise said lip, cementing said solemember to the lasted shoe with said lip outwardly of said projectingelement, and then pressing said molded margin to close said lip oversaid element and extend said element outwardly beneath said lip.

FRED L. AYERS.

